Whitehorse, The Yukon

After how much I'd loved Dawson I was prepared to be disappointed by Whitehorse, the Yukon's largest city (though still titchy, by any other standards). It did feel very busy compared to the previous two weeks but still had a friendly vibe and we enjoyed a few days there, exploring the Yukon river as well as joints with interesting names like Burnt Toast (fantastic jambalaya) and the Dirty Northern inn. And I got a swim in their lovely pool, which was much appreciated following a sticky 6hr drive from Dawson in 26C heat.

We paddled a canoe 24km down the Yukon. No big feat as it's actually pretty fast flowing without much human effort but we saw eagles and otters. We spent an afternoon drinking coffee at the midnight coffee roasters (a funky wee place attached to a bike shop where they roast coffee, all bases covered!) sorting out trip plans with their free wifi (rare as hens teeth here) and getting a load of laundry done in an effort to minimise van stink!

I'd been reading about the Grey Mountain bike trails so was really keen to get out to ride them and they didn't disappoint the next day. Loads of fun flowy trails that you could get to easily from downtown. Beavers splashing their tails but no bears (still using my bear bell). Some awe-inspiring north shore and big jumps, they really know how to build a trail there and I'm sure if it had been the weekend it would have been buzzing. Almost every car in the Yukon seemed to have a canoe on the roof and bike in the back. I think this would be a cool place to live and we've really got on well with everyone we've met.

21st June is aboriginal day so we were treated to some free moose stew and bannocks in the cultural centre, along with music and talks. We are doing well on free food and community events his trip. Looking forward to Canada Day and 4th July (hopefully we will be in the US by then).

We are now parked up for the night, hiding from the vicious mozzies and getting ready for another big drive to Liard Hot springs, our first stop off in British Coulmbia.

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